- Scheepjes CAL 2017
- Scheepjes CAL 2016
- Scheepjes CAL 2015
- Scheepjes CAL 2014
CALs sponsored by Scheepjes
- Spirits of Life Wrap CAL 2017
- Nuts about Squares CAL 2017
- Mexican Mandala CAL 2016
- Fleur-de-Lis Mystery CAL 2016
- Mandala Madness CAL 2016
- Around the Bases CAL 2015
- Sophie's Universe CAL 2015
- I want that Bag CAL 2015
Week 13: Joining
- Dancing in the Sea: 1 x ball Merino Soft Da Vinci (606) or 1x ball Colour Crafter Ermelo (1710)
- Dancing in the Rain: 1x ball Merino Soft Michelangelo (603) or 1x ball Colour Crafter Heerenveen (1203)
- Dancing under the Stars: 1 x ball Merino Soft Rembrandt (609) or 1 x ball Colour Crafter Veendam (1004)
- Tapestry needle
- Crochet hook (*note: we suggest you use a hook size 5,5 mm for the joining but you may need to change this depending on your tension).
- Stitch markers
The joining of the squares is done in continuous rows, square by square until an entire row is finished. *Do not cut your yarn after 2 squares are joined.
First join all the vertical rows, and then join all the horizontal rows. Joining is done from right side to left side (for right handed people, left handed people will need to work from left to right). Joining this way means there are not many ends to weave in, and the blanket will have a nice solid and stable character. This joining method is also very aesthetic, thanks to the continuous joining of the squares.
Square after square, and row after row, your blanket will grow. We advise you to find a comfortable position when you start joining, and make sure you have enough space to work and spread your blanket, to avoid mistakes (and twisted motifs and rows).
The joining method is called: flat zipper (slipstitch) joining. This method ensures a perfectly flat seam.
Use a larger hook for the joining, since you will be working slipstitches and you want to obtain a stretchy joining. We recommend hook size 5 – 6 mm.
Step 1: Vertical joining
- Take the upper 2 squares on the right (see scheme): 1 ‘W10’ square and 1 ‘W3’ motif. Place them next to each other, side by side.
- Take a look at the dc edging round. Every stitch has 2 loops, the front loop (the one facing you) and the back loop (the one on the table or the surface you are working on). From now on these backs loops are called INNER LOOPS. The entire joining will be done using those INNER LOOPS.
- Use a larger crochet hook, to obtain a loose gauge. This is crucial.
- Start joining the squares in the stitch below the contrast thread, and end joining the square in the stitch with the contrast thread, this means you are joining 29 stitches for each square.
Take your yarn and crochet hook. Put a slipstitch on your hook. Next insert your hook from front to back in the inner loop of the first stitch. Then insert the hook in the inner loop (also from front to back) of the first stitch of the opposite square. Pull through all loops (your yarn is at the back of your work, this is ok!). Go to the next stitch: insert your hook (again from front to back) in the inner loop of the first square, followed by doing the same thing in the inner loop of the second square and pull the yarn trough (you pull through 3 loops). Make sure your stitches are loose, to obtain a stretchy fabric.
Work now stitch by stitch, until both first squares are joined. DO NOT CUT YARN.
Take the next 2 squares: ‘W11’ and ‘W2’. Place ‘W2’next to ‘W3’ on the left side and ‘W11’ next to ‘W10’. Place them next to each other, just like you did for the first 2 motifs.
Continue joining by slipstitching together in the inner loops, making sure your first 2 joined squares (W3 and W10) are not twisted. The first stitch is a bit tricky transitioning between the first 2 and second 2 squares. Make sure you keep your yarn at the back of your work. Continue joining in this way.
Continue like this for the entire first vertical ‘line’. Be careful to ensure your previously joined squares are NOT TWISTED.
When the last 2 squares of the first row are joined: ‘W8’ and ‘W9’, cut yarn and cast off.
You now have a long row of 16 squares that are all joined with 1 vertical line.
Step 2: Vertical joining
Use the same method to join vertical lines 2-3-4 and 5. When finished, your blanket is composed with squares that are only joined vertically. The next step will be joining of the horizontal lines.
Step 3: Horizontal joining
For the horizontal joining, use exactly the same method as used for the vertical joining. It is easier to begin with the bottom row and work your way up the blanket.
When 2 squares in a row are slipstitched together, you work ‘over the vertical line’ to go to the next squares. There are a total of 7 horizontal joining rows. At the end of each row, cut the yarn and cast off.
IMPORTANT: Do NOT weave in the ends! This will be done after the edging is worked.
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